Wool denim, jacquard fabrics and the impact of geopolitical issues were topics of conversation last week at Denim Première Vision in Milan.
The two-day show held at Studio Più coincided with the launch of “The Wool Lab Denim Edition,” a comprehensive digital sourcing guide for wool denim fabrics developed by The Woolmark Company. As a first-time exhibitor at Denim Première Vision, The Woolmark Company connected with mills and brands to showcase the performance advantages and sustainability benefits of incorporating wool into denim.
Marco Rodigari, a consultant for Woolmark, addressed the common misconception that wool is solely for cold weather, explaining that—depending on how it’s processed and what it’s blended with—wool can be engineered for warm climates and active lifestyles. Thanks to its natural thermoregulating properties, wool denim offers comfort year-round. Additionally, wool is stain-resistant meaning it requires fewer at-home washes. Fabrics must contain at least 30 percent wool to carry these properties.
“The market told consumers wool is for the winter, but that’s not always right,” Rodigari said.
Woolmark reports seeing an increased interest in wool denim over the past four years. Wool denim originated about a decade ago, when woolen mills began producing 100 percent wool fabrics designed to mimic the look of traditional denim, he said. Now, the focus is shifting to combining wool with indigo-dyed cotton and other fibers. Wool Lab features new blends such as wool/hemp, wool/lyocell and 100 percent extra-fine wool spun with premium fibers like silk, cashmere and paper—each offering unique benefits and applications. Rodigari added that wool adds a nice drape to denim fabrics ideal for more tailored looks.
Many of these applications were presented at Denim Première Vision including wool denim blends dyed with natural indigo and others printed by flowers.
The Wool Lab Denim Edition presents seven wool denim categories: A Revised Classic, Special Treatments, Denim Shirting, The Denim Suit, Signature Denim, Thread Rebels, and Denim-Inspired Knits and Jerseys.
The accompanying tool kit, developed in collaboration with Woolmark’s global network of textile experts, provides in-depth insights into wool’s performance in denim applications, offering guidance on fiber selection, fabric construction, finishing techniques, and sustainability practices. With this expert-driven resource, designers and manufacturers can explore the full potential of wool in denim, combining innovation with technical precision.
Meanwhile, Archroma is exploring the possibilities of wool waste.
The Pratteln, Switzerland-based specialty chemicals provider introduced Fibercolors, a patented technology that creates warm shades from 100 percent wool feedstock. The dye synthesis technology produces natural shades from waste fleeces—a residue that is usually discarded by farmers and not used for any other applications.
Fibercolors can be applied to cellulosic and wool fibers, making it perfect for casual wear, home textiles and denim. It comes in brown, made with 100 percent wool waste, and blue/gray, which Archroma achieves by blending 50 percent wool waste with other commercial dyes from its color range.
Sourcing map
Geopolitical issues were top of mind for many exhibitors at Denim Première Vision.
A representative from Pakistan-based Chottani Industries said clients expressed their concerns about the four-day military conflict between Pakistan and India earlier this month and how it would affect production. The quick ceasefire helped quell their concerns.
Chinese mills continue to feel the effects of President Trump’s trade war with China. Approximately 60 percent of Xindadong’s business is with U.S. clients. In general, a representative said brands are asking their Chinese suppliers to absorb 5-10 percent of the added cost from tariffs.
A representative from China-based Freedom Denim is hearing similar requests with brands and mills splitting the extra costs.
Advance Denim, which has a footprint and China and Vietnam, said many clients are still in a “wait and see” pattern to see how the negations unfold.
Tariffs are not causing major issues for Turkey-based Sharabati Denim, which began targeting the U.S. market two years ago. However, the mill is watching the situation closely. Dr. Dilek Erik, global marketing manager at Sharabati Denim, noted that while only five percent of the company’s business is in the U.S., the mill’s substantial production capacity means that figure still represents a significant volume.
Turkey’s economic downturn is a broader cause for concern for companies in the region, as it’s driving many Turkish companies to set up garment facilities in neighboring Egypt. Erik said she’s heard of several companies closing or relocating parts of their business.
While Sharabati has “stable and organized” manufacturing in Egypt, Erik said newcomers are starting from zero. She said Turkish companies are recruiting training teams to run two-month programs for sewing and other skills to get Egypt’s workforce up and running.
Despite the poor local economy, a representative from Realteks said Turkey has the advantage now. “Demand may shift to North Africa, but the region doesn’t have the capacity that Turkey has,” they said.
The Moroccan Association of Textile and Clothing Industries (AMITH) thinks otherwise. The association showcased members of the textile supply chain to bring awareness of the country’s strength in denim garment manufacturing and knitwear.
Exhibitors included Blue Fingers, Crossing, Aryans, Casual Pant, Lavasser, Vindi, QST and Evlox.
Khalid Ouhammou, a representative from AMITH’s promotion department, remarked that a conflict-free relationship with the U.S. and its proximity to the EU make an attractive hub for many denim brands including Kenzo, Diesel and H&M. The country is the No. 1 apparel exporter to the EU in Africa and 75 percent of its production is destined for export.
He added that demand for denim is strong. Sales increased 21 percent from 2021 to 2022, and sales are on track to reach pre-covid levels this year. However, Morocco’s challenges are upstream. Ouhammou said the country lacks denim fabric manufacturing.
New concepts
Evlox is an exception. The Spanish company opened its factory in Settat, Morocco in 1991. At Denim Première Vision, the mill showcased textile innovations like Japanese Soul, its first 16 oz. fabric. The gritty textile has the traditional appearance of Japanese selvedge. Evlox also expanded its Douglas fabric, a line of fabrics dyed the same color inside and outside. New colors include black and navy.
Fibers are at the core of other collections. In Authentics, Evlox uses recycled, organic and regenerative cotton to create a variety of nostalgic constructions like salt and pepper and crosshatch. In Smoothies, bamboo, hemp and Ecovero from Lenzing are applied to fabrics to give unique handles and appearances.
Organic bamboo is part of Freedom Denim’s F/W 26-27 collection. The traceable viscose fiber behaves like lyocell, adding softness and an elegant drape to denim fabrics. The unbleached fibers give fabrics a yellow natural look.
Freedom Denim addressed the demand for soft fabrics with several new concepts including a robust line of chenille denim. The fabrics, made with a cotton indigo warp and polyester weft, wash down like conventional denim. Freedom highlighted the fabric’s versatility by showing it as loungewear, with flocking and in check and striped constructions available in sulfur and reactive dye options.
Freedom’s Cloud Denim achieves its soft touch through a low twist spinning technique. A rep said clients are going wild for cashmere and wool blends. The mill also showcased chambray in a range of colors and indigo yarn-dyed shirting. A new over-spun fabric has a crimped, wrinkled texture.
The growing demand for tinted denim led several mills to develop more efficient alternatives. Freedom presented Mirage, a fabric with a reactive dye under indigo, giving it a tinted appearance as it fades. Clients can customize the reactive dye color to achieve any tint they desire. A rep said Mirage helps reduce costs and chemicals.
Xindadong’s solution is its new Earth Brown color, an indigo fabric that washes down to a vintage brown color. The effect nods to the scorched denim trend highlighted in Denim Première Vision’s F/W 26-27 forecast.
In addition to flocking novelties and its first selvedge fabrics—offered in rigid and comfort stretch constructions— Xindadong highlighted its partnership with Chloris Biochem. The mill is using the U.S.-based synthetic biotech firm’s 100 percent bio-based Claessen Blue dye to achieve vibrant shades of blue.
The dye is produced through a biofermentation and purification process that is free of aniline, formaldehyde and heavy metals. The naturally biodegradable dye is wash-friendly and suitable for diverse applications on various fibers, especially high-end natural ones.
Realteks is receiving positive feedback for fabrics with gray/indigo washes, brown overdyes and green tints. The Turkish company is also seeing a strong demand for fabrics with a soft touch. A representative noted that these fabrics—crafted from viscose and cotton/Tencel blends—are especially valuable for brands focusing on relaxed or baggy silhouettes.
Pioneer Denim featured Prism, a collection of nine colors that offer brands a wide range of dark to light shades. The versatile fabrics were showcased alongside other color-driven concepts, such as Stay Blue and Stay Black technologies, indigo fabrics in varying intensities, and a range of green-cast options.
The Bangladeshi mill capped off the first day of the show with a runway event at the Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci. Christian Reca, Pioneer’s Italy-based head of design, marketing and merchandising, said the venue was fitting for Pioneer and its efforts to push the boundaries of denim.
Pioneer showcased rigid and stretch fabrics made with pineapple fiber, which the mill produces in house. It was also among the group of mills showing wool blends.
Jacquard denim remains a key attraction for Kilim, as the Turkish mill demonstrated how brands can customize jacquard designs alongside other innovations, including fabrics with glossy coatings and reverse-coated finishes. A rep said the mill sees interest in striped fabrics in various constructions. Tencel and linen blends are gaining momentum as well. Indigo washes with hints of organic, nature-derived colors are trending for the season.
Advance Denim sees demand for jacquard fabrics growing. The denim manufacturer, which has mills in China and Vietnam, showed new options featuring lurex, punched effects, floral patterns and velvet-touch fibers. Subtle flocking and coatings are also proving to be important, including pigment coatings on indigo and glossy black on indigo that can be lasered for added effects.
The remainder of Advance’s collection focused on versatile fabrics for everyday wear. The mill meets the demand for stretch fabrics with a rigid appearance with Fit Cross. The fabrics have a flat and dense look. With Cotton Fit, Advance offers 100 percent cotton fabrics that use a special weaving technique to enhance stretchability. The technique also gives weft yarns that are distressed a more flat and neat appearance.
The show also provided Advance with a platform to showcase its new Blue Loop dye technology, the result of several years of development. Blue Loop is an indigo recovery system that uses membrane separation technology to remove indigo dye stuff from wastewater to obtain indigo concentrate and clean water. Through the process, indigo goes back to the indigo dye box and water goes back into the dyeing process.
Advance reports that the Blue Loop indigo recovery rate is 98 percent; the water recovery rate is 98 percent. The technology is currently available at Advance’s facility in China.
Sharabati launched a new twill brand called Twillis by Sharabati. Twillis is an evolution of the gabardine fabrics previously offered by the mill’s denim division. Erik described the brand as a significant investment for Sharabati, highlighting Twillis’ use of exceptionally fine yarns and distinctive finishing techniques that are specific to flat fabrics.
Sharabati uses high-quality cotton and mechanical finishing to create “soft and precious” fabrics for parts of the collection. The mill offers a piece dye service and a large range of colors to control the quality of fabrics. Some have a jacquard look but are made with regular weaving machines.
Other fabrics feature twisted yarn and Tencel to achieve a fluid appearance. Compact constructions—including some that are double-faced—are positioned for all seasons. Ripstop and canvas constructions are ideal for all-day wear.
Denim Première Vision maintained its reputation as a source for creative denim fashion. Garment manufacturers highlighted how clients can layer finishing techniques to create one-of-a-kind looks.
Newspaper prints, tints and upcycled fabrics were part of M&J Group collection. The garment maker highlighted how brands can use stock fabric to create entirely different looks. M&J also showed heavily destroyed garments made with two layers of fabric.
Chottani Industries combines quilting and laser—a duo that a representative said is especially popular with clients based in Italy and the U.K. Animal prints are still going strong, but brands are adding distressing to make them feel fresh.
Beige embroidery on indigo and acid washes with embroidery nod to the ongoing country and vintage trends. Rather than make perfect designs, Chottani is building the look of imperfect handiwork into machine-made embroideries.
Discharge prints are being layered with screen printing to create 3-D effects, and more brands are adapting cutwork. Instead of creating eyelet holes, brands are lasering the surface of fabrics to create dimension.