BETA
This is a BETA experience. You may opt-out by clicking here

More From Forbes

Edit Story

The Growing Potential Of The Resale Market, Fueled In Part By ThredUp

Following
This article is more than 3 years old.

The resale market has expanded rapidly, in no small part because ThredUp’s vast offerings have been accepted for sale by a wide variety of major store chains like Walmart WMT , Macy’s M , JCPenney JCP , Nordstro JWN m and Gap GPS , as well as Banana Republic, Athleta, Neiman Marcus, Hollister and many more. Most of the sales are online, albeit Macy’s also sells ThredUp merchandise in 40 stores and Nordstrom has a selection in their New York flagship store available when that store reopens.

I studied the potential of reselling worn clothes. It is a huge market and the management of ThredUp makes a convincing argument for the growth of their business. Since ThreadUp added so many fine resellers, the company’s sales jumped 254%.

In a study ThredUp completed recently, the company found that 82% of people surveyed have bought, or are ready to shop for, secondhand clothes when money gets tighter. Their study showed that this favorable attitude toward secondhand clothing has been steadily increasing: In 2019, the percentage of consumers with a favorable attitude was 70%; in 2018, 64%; in 2017, 52%; and in 2016, 45%.

Secondhand sales are expected to double in the next 10 years. Secondhand sales were 3% of total apparel sales in 2009, 7% in 2019 and are projected by the company’s study to be 17% by 2029. With the pandemic COVID-19 haunting everyone, this growth projection is easy to accept.

ThredUp has an inventory of over 750,000 previously worn garments. They range from high -priced items from Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Halston and Gucci to popular priced choices from Torrid, Doc Martens, Vera Bradley VRA , Nike NKE and others. Top sellers range from Gucci satchels, Tory Burch backpacks, and Madewell leather bags to dresses by Anthropology, Free People, and Diane von Furstenberg. Also popular are Coach wool sweaters and Everlane cashmere cardigans. Frye boots, Doc Martens, and UGG products, which were also mentioned.

Denise Incandela, Walmart’s head of fashion for U.S. e-commerce, states that for the past few years, Walmart has focused on expanding its assortment of quality on-trend, accessible fashion to help customers outfit themselves no matter what their personal style or budgets. The company has added 1,000 brands to the online assortment. Now, they will be offering more brands with their entry into the popular fashion resale market. Customers can shop to find a huge assortment of pre-owned items across women’s and children clothing, accessories, footwear and handbags.

Jean Volk, director of product management for ThredUp, added that, “we are excited to join forces with Walmart to power a suitable, secondhand shopping experience. From Calvin Klein and Nike to Coach and Michael Kors, this digital partnership enhances Walmart’s fashion offering with fresh brands at amazing prices that customers will love.”

The growth of the secondhand market is just one of many new trends affecting retailing. Market share for department stores is shrinking. In 2009, it was 22% and by 2019 it was down to 13%. ThredUp’s study shows that in 2029, department stores’ share of market will be just 7%. On the other hand, the study also shows that off-price retailers will jump from being 10% in 2009 and 16% in 2019 to hit 19% in 2029. Direct-to-consumer sales, which were 8% in 2009 and 2019, will rise to 12% by 2029. I also note that mid-priced fashion, which had a 26% share of market in 2009, is projected to drop to 12% by 2029. Some of these figures are likely to be revised after the effect of the pandemic is factored into the study. When that happens, I think some of the full-price stores may feel a greater effect. Rob McGovern, CEO of PreciseTarget, says that 56% of the retail channel is at risk during all of this pandemic activity. Brands will be forced to adopt new business models.

ThredUp was cofounded in 2009 in Cambridge, Massachusetts (at Harvard Business School) by James Reinhart, Chris Homer and Oliver Lubin. It is now headquartered in San Francisco. James Reinhart is the CEO. The company started as an online site for sharing men’s dress shirts. It then tried swapping men’s and women’s clothes. In 2010, it pivoted to children’s clothing, their first real success. The company is now part of a new collective sharing economy of companies that sell apparel, electronics, and more. Examples include Threadflip, Tradsey, Poshmark, Gazelle, uSell, Nextworth and The RealReal REAL . Trinity Ventures, Redpoint Ventures, and Highland Capital Partners have invested in the company. As a result, I expect the company to eventually go public.